S-flex vs.R-flex Driver...

By the book, I have no business of playing S-flex driver with my 90 mph max SS. Couple yrs ago I tried my friend's S-flex Taylormade driver and I hit quite well. That gave me the comfort level I could hit S-flex driver (not Iron though). Last yr I bought a 99.999% new Cally Diablo Edge tour 9.5* and S-flex for $38 to try out. Love that club, I hit it as long and much straighter. Last wk I eBayed a Tit-less 905R 9.5* S-flex Aldila shaft for $28 (8/10 rating)... NEVER thought that it would kick the Diablo Edge tour out of my bag, IT DID... The moral of the story is (1) try, try, try... S-flex driver shaft may work better (2) there are plenty of great almost new drivers out there , and yes, i could afford any new driver that I wanted

I agree!

When I started playing 6 yrs ago, I bought a Cally Diablo Edge 10.5* regular flex driver. I constantly sprayed all over the place and attributed it to being a noob and needing lessons.
After 3 years, I tried out my current driver - a G15 w/ Aldila Serrano Stiff shaft. I immediately started hitting it straight with a ton of confidence. It just felt 'right'.

I have a mid to upper 80's swing speed and everyone tells me I shouldn't be playing thaT shaft, but for me, it works.
Now that I hacked off an inch, it's even better.

Can't argue with what works.

PKY, what Aldila shaft is in your 905R? If you want the ultimate in point-and-shoot Titleist driver, score a 909 DComp. I have two 905R's and two 909 DComps amongst many others and the DComps are head and shoulders above the rest.

Mongrel wrote:PKY, what Aldila shaft is in your 905R? If you want the ultimate in point-and-shoot Titleist driver, score a 909 DComp. I have two 905R's and two 909 DComps amongst many others and the DComps are head and shoulders above the rest.

My new 905-R Tit-less comes with the Aldila NV 65-g S-flex., not sure if it's 0.335 or 0.350. I remember U swear by your 909D comps.... well, if I could find one with the same shaft as the 905-R Tit-less I probably would jump at it   

Its o.335". Keep in mind that the NV inserted full bore into the 905R head is at a depth of almost 3.5". The 909 series heads are standard bores where the shaft goes in about 1.6" or so. So putting the same shaft into the 909 without cutting off a bit of the tip will make it play a bit softer. I tried maybe 10 or so shafts in my two 905R heads and the best one, believe it or not, is a Dynamic Gold R300 steel shaft. Due to the design of the DComp head, you can get away with shafts that normally would be too stiff for you.

Mongrel wrote:Its o.335". Keep in mind that the NV inserted full bore into the 905R head is at a depth of almost 3.5". The 909 series heads are standard bores where the shaft goes in about 1.6" or so. So putting the same shaft into the 909 without cutting off a bit of the tip will make it play a bit softer. I tried maybe 10 or so shafts in my two 905R heads and the best one, believe it or not, is a Dynamic Gold R300 steel shaft. Due to the design of the DComp head, you can get away with shafts that normally would be too stiff for you.

so full bore thru like 905R or most Cally driver would  make it even stiffer?

Just measured my Tit-less : 45" from end of grip to end of bore thru... and 46" from end of grip to bottom of driver's head
My Cally Diablo Edge tour : Not a bore-thru technology... and 46" from end of grip to bottom of driver's head

I guess I could cut its shaft end by 3/4"-1"... Maybe I could experiment with my Cally Edge tour first since it has become my back-up driver   

The correct length of your 905R is measured to bottom of bore-through on the sole. So it is 45" which is the standard 905R length from the factory. Shafts used by Titleist in their bore-through heads typically have an extra inch of parallel tip length than their standard models. For instance, the standard NV shaft will have a three inch parallel tip but the ones Titleist bought were made with four inch parallel tips. Stick a three inch parallel tipped NV into a bore-through head like the 905R and the stiff flex will be like a XX flex and probably unhittable for you and most of the rest of the world. That's why I like the 909 Titleist drivers because they are the first standard bores and you don't have to limit shaft selection to those with four inch parallel tips. Of course you could always do a partial insertion into a bore-through head of say 1.5" to 2". I did that with my 11.5* 905R head with the steel dynamic gold R300 shaft. About two inches insert and it plays perfectly.

Mongrel wrote:The correct length of your 905R is measured to bottom of bore-through on the sole. So it is 45" which is the standard 905R length from the factory. Shafts used by Titleist in their bore-through heads typically have an extra inch of parallel tip length than their standard models. For instance, the standard NV shaft will have a three inch parallel tip but the ones Titleist bought were made with four inch parallel tips. Stick a three inch parallel tipped NV into a bore-through head like the 905R and the stiff flex will be like a XX flex and probably unhittable for you and most of the rest of the world. That's why I like the 909 Titleist drivers because they are the first standard bores and you don't have to limit shaft selection to those with four inch parallel tips. Of course you could always do a partial insertion into a bore-through head of say 1.5" to 2". I did that with my 11.5* 905R head with the steel dynamic gold R300 shaft. About two inches insert and it plays perfectly.

Thanks... Lesson learned  

I went out to Golf Smith this morning and took out ALL used driver 9.5* with S-flex shafts. Granted that I do not compare apples to apples because they have different driver heads, BUT.... the Aldila NV 65-g S-flex club gave me the best distance. This gives me more comfort level and enhance my confidence with my newly acquired Tit-less 905R driver