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    Question for the Pro.....

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    Pky6471

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    Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Pky6471 on Sun Aug 09, 2015 5:13 pm

    I picked up an almost new Callay FT 4W (17*) w/ UST V2 R-flex shaft for a price that I could not pass it up. It's about 1/2" shorter than my 3W. I hit it quite crisp and launch it nicely with easy swing ... I wonder if it's a good idea (in the future) when I need to replace the grip of this club I could extend it to the length of a 3W and make it a high-launch 3W / Pro vs. Con ?
    thanks guys/ girls/ AC-DC
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    Pky6471

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Pky6471 on Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:03 am

    5-6 Yrs ago when I traveled to S. of Atlanta for business and played golf with my Bro whose friend lent me his set of golf clubs, I hit his Cleveland 3W extremely well... I later learned that it was a 17* 3W, that's why the 17* 3W really intrigues me. I hit my 13* TM JetSpeed EXTREMELY well and I know that it has HL 17* 3W in that family. If I knew I could hit that 17* 3W as well I 'll jump at it in a heartbeat
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    Mongrel

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Mongrel on Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:23 am

    I have experimented with extending shafts on both drivers and fairway woods and never had success. When you extend a club, you must use a shaft extension piece. In the old days, wooden dowels were used. Nowadays, extensions are made of steel, aluminum and graphite. To extend a steel shaft, you use steel or aluminum. And graphite for graphite. No matter what is used, the extension itself will always weigh more than that piece of the original shaft that was cut off before. When I did the extensions, I weighed the extensions prior to installation and could figure out to the gram how much the original shaft equivalent weighed. In some cases, the extended shaft weighed ten grams or more with the extension in place. This skews the balance of the club as measured on the swing weight scale. In order to balance the club out to where it was, you would need to add some weight to the club head. All this does is make the club's total weight heavier which may or may not be a good thing.

    So if you have a 17* fairway wood that you hit well, I advise you not to have it fucked with. For another five or ten yards you might get with another half or full inch, you might be getting a world of hurt playability wise. If you really love the club head, get it re-shafted and cut to a longer length.
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    Pky6471

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Pky6471 on Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:39 am

    OK Mongrel... I won't fuckkkkkkk with it.... I still carry my favorite 15* 3W, but I am not comfortable hitting it off the deck since last yr, not sure why (still use it to T-off when needed),,,, now I have to relearn how to hit a 17* 4W off the deck
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    jt1135

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  jt1135 on Fri Aug 14, 2015 9:39 pm

    After the bike accident, I got on the bay and picked up set of mizuno jpx 825's with aerotech steelfiber i70 shafts. Figured I couldn't swing hard for a while because of the busted ribs. REALLY love those shafts. Might have lost a couple of yards but when I hit a green the ball stops! Now that I know the distances (7 iron about 150) have a lot more shots at birds. Probably spin too much but its working.
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    Pky6471

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Pky6471 on Sat Aug 15, 2015 6:27 am

    jt1135 wrote:After the bike accident, I got on the bay and picked up set of mizuno jpx 825's with aerotech steelfiber i70 shafts.  Figured I couldn't swing hard for a while because of the busted ribs.  REALLY love those shafts.  Might have lost a couple of yards but when I hit a green the ball stops!  Now that I know the distances (7 iron about 150) have a lot more shots at birds.  Probably spin too much but its working.

    Great to hear... IMO, most of us (me included for sure) try to hit hard and hence lose balance and NEVER hit it at the sweet spot.... My 2-cap friend keeps telling me "swing at the ball" NOT "hit the ball" . This year I practice what he told me and I strike the ball much much better, longer and straighter. Another thing he told me is that "what is your chance of hitting a 3W from the deck onto a green, almost zero , so why not take a 19-22 gaybrid and advance your ball close to the green and hope for a up-n-down... I score way better that way. STUPID EGO
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    Pky6471

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Pky6471 on Sun Sep 06, 2015 4:32 pm

    [quote="Pky6471"]
    jt1135 wrote:After the bike accident, I got on the bay and picked up set of mizuno jpx 825's with aerotech steelfiber i70 shafts.  Figured I couldn't swing hard for a while because of the busted ribs.  REALLY love those shafts.  Might have lost a couple of yards but when I hit a green the ball stops!  Now that I know the distances (7 iron about 150) have a lot more shots at birds.  Probably spin too much but its working.

    My 17* Cally FT 4W comes with UST V2 shaft... I like the club but not consistent enough to keep. I think this shaft has a stiffer tip (Mongrel can confirm if it has firm tip) Even though it's R-flex , I feel a little bit stiffer than the R-shaft, so I sold it on fleabay and made money on it.
    Since I like the newly acquired 13* HL M-flex Taylormade Jetspeed, I fleabayed a 17* HL 3-W Jetspeed, it's here, hopefully I can regain confidence with a 17* 3W... will see
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    trombettista_vecchio

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  trombettista_vecchio on Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:05 pm

    As with all modern golf clubs, the new fairway woods make me sad.  So much new technology.  No custom made clubheads.  It was so easy to make a custom persimmon or laminated maple fairway wood.  Your pro notifies the clubmaker and the clubmaker--MacGregor, Spalding, Wilson, or whoever--simply made it. All they needed was a lathe, and you got the exact lofts, lie angles, and face angles that you wanted.  

    The huge irony was that the stock metrics fit me just fine. And the early metals--TaylorMade Pittsburgh Persimmon and Titleist PT for example, had metrics the same as wooden woods. Those fit me fine as well.  

    Then the clubheads got too big, too strong lofted, too upright, too closed faced, and too goddamned ugly.  The technology is certainly more advanced, but the simple metrics don't fit me.  And they don't custom forge special clubheads for you.  The tooling would be a hell of a lot more costly than just adjusting the lathe.  Actually, Zeider did forge custom clubheads for you, but it seems that they've given up on golf.
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    Pky6471

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Pky6471 on Thu Sep 10, 2015 9:25 am

    Thanks... 10 yrs ago, 3W was my bread-n-butter off the deck, I started losing my confidence with it... HOPEFULLY, the 17* 3W could help regain my confidence a little , ... I hate to carry it just for off the Ts
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    trombettista_vecchio

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  trombettista_vecchio on Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:34 am

    Pky6471 wrote:Thanks... 10 yrs ago, 3W was my bread-n-butter off the deck, I started losing my confidence with it... HOPEFULLY, the 17* 3W could help regain my confidence a little , ... I hate to carry it just for off the Ts

    Real wooden 3-woods were usually 17º.  My new clubs don't have club numbers on them, but I don't go any stronger than 18.5º from the fairway.

    Will your Callaway club be too upright with the extra length? I have to think that I'd leave it alone if I were hitting it well. I'd also leave the old three wood out of the bag.

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    Mongrel

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  Mongrel on Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:15 pm

    That's an interesting bag of clubs there. The Epon driving iron is 19* and I assume has a flat iron face with no bulge or roll. I've got a Taylormade 18* driving iron in my bag. It came with a KBS C-Taper Lite stiff shaft that was deadly accurate but a little too much shaft for me. Last week I found a local shop with some new-old-stock Graphite Design GAT 95 taper tip shafts in regular so I bought one and glued it into the Taylormade head. It is much better feeling off the tee but a little iffy off the turf. Then I stuck the KBS shaft into my old Mizuno T-Zoid Fli Hi 21* et voila---a perfect killer off the fairway with the feel of a tack driver.

    How do you like the Aldila shafts in your new irons? What is the weight of that shaft? Based on the GAT 95 I put in the driving iron, I figure I would need graphite shafts in the mid 90's to low 100 gram range if I was to put them in some iron heads.
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    trombettista_vecchio

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    Re: Question for the Pro.....

    Post  trombettista_vecchio on Tue Sep 22, 2015 7:35 pm

    The Aldila NV Pro 105s weigh, curiously enough, 105 grams.  I had to fight (and pay) to have them put on the Hogans, but the company is new and anxious to please.  It's not an offered option, but it's what I eventually had put onto my DCI 962s and everything that followed them, including my late brother's Miuras which I eventually gave back to my nephew plus Mizuno MPs, California Golf Technologies boutique clubs, and Callaway Apexes (which were a gift from my girlfriend only last year and the set I'd better still play when I'm with her.)  The only lightweight graphite iron shaft that ever felt stable to me was the Fujikura Vista Pro 70 which hasn't been made for many years.  That one played liked hickory but not a fiberglass fishing rod.

    As you know, the energy transfer into the ball is a product of mass and velocity.  Woods don't add much mass to the equation. A huge titanium driver head is the lightest club head in the bag (although I'm not playing one).  Thus, one loses a lot of juice on his woods when flexibility issues reduce his backswing.  I need more help in the way of tip kick than I'd get from a green Aldila shaft or equivalent.  Thus the 65 Golds.

    With irons and their heavy heads, however, I can handle the NV 105s in R-flex and get the benefit of narrower shot dispersion with the lower torque tips.

    The Epon (yes, flat face) which you mentioned is a ludicrously over-priced boutique brand club once (but no longer) available from Tour Spec, and it became more expensive when I had to replace the MachLine UT370 with a shaft to match my irons.  But what a driving iron!  The Fli-Hi is quite good and so are some of the others,  but the Epon is highly playable by almost any player.  It lands too hot to hit into protected greens from the deck or on par threes, but it hits straight, hot landing line drives on tight driving holes and could be hit into run-on greens if one were so inclined.

    I have 15 slots in my bag, but I don't list the Worx sand iron, successor to the discontinued Lovett, lest that fifteenth club offend our purists.  That's 11 NV Pro 105s in the new bag alone. I went to graphite on irons a long time ago because my hands swell less on the back nine with them.  They're as heavy as lightweight steel shafts but transfer a lot less shock up into the grips. The .335 UST shafts, on the other hand, are as light as any other typical metalwood's graphite shaft.

    What I wish is that I could work on my own equipment as you do.  Changing shafts and grips to you is like changing socks to me.  But I can't, so that's that, I guess.

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